VII. MAINTENANCE AND REFINISHING OF HARDWOOD FLOORS
A.
Maintaining
Wood Floors Properly
1.
No
matter what the finish, never use water on wood. Soaps, detergents, "oil soaps", and wax removers
will damage wood and finish, leave a discoloring residue, and make refinishing
difficult.
2.
Do not
wax most finishes, unless you want to be waxing it forever. If in doubt, ask your installer,
material source or manufacturer.
3.
If you
do wax your floor, do not use "self-polishing" waxes (unless
the label reads specifically for hardwood floors). Most of these products are water and plastic. After spreading, the water evaporates
and leaves a shiny coat of plastic which discolors the wood, will not adhere to
previously waxed wood, and requires harsh chemicals, usually mixed with more
water, to remove.
4.
Grit is
the greatest source of wear: remove it with dust mop, broom sweep, electric
broom, or vacuum.
5.
Wipe up
liquid or food spills promptly with dry cloth or paper towels. Remove sticky residue (like jelly) with
a barely damp, not dripping, cloth or mop.
6.
If you
do not wax your floors. NEVER
USE ANY CLEANER WHICH HAS OIL OR WAX IN IT. Murphy's or other oil soaps, janitors "sawdust" or
cleaning compounds and most floor cleaning products will cause problems. Any oil, wax or grease on the floor
will make it difficult to refinish the floors.
7.
Occasionally
(only when needed), mop with one of the new cleaners specifically designed for
wood floors. Do not use
brands which contain much water or which you have to dilute with water. Make absolutely certain that
the product is clearly labeled for wood floors
8.
After
washing dishes, dry mop the kitchen to pick up water droplets.
9.
Use
area rugs in front of the sinks to catch splashing.
10.
Place
dirt catching (coco fiber) mats at outside entry doors.
11.
Buff waxed
wood floors only.
a.
Proper
waxing maintenance depends on the client and the look they expect from their
floor.
b.
In
general, wood floors should be waxed only when needed and never more than twice
a year.
c.
An
electric buffer should be used.
They can be rented.
d.
Wax
only the traffic areas.
e.
Buff as
needed between waxing.
1.
Wood
develops "patina," that magical glow that age will bring to a floor
as it does to antique furniture.
However, without proper maintenance, even the hardest finish will
eventually wear through and the wood will be damaged. The secret is never to refinish the wood, only refinish the
finish, i.e., never allow the finish to wear through to the wood. This is especially important with
stained or "pickled" floors.
2.
To
determine when this should be done, pick the area with the heaviest traffic
flow, usually at the main entry.
When that finish begins to "fog up" or show noticeable wear, have
the floor lightly sanded with a fine sanding screen or pad on a flooring
buffer, and a coat of finish applied.
Depending on the amount of use and wear, it can be 3 to 15 years before
refinishing is needed.
3.
Refinishing
by sanding down to the wood should rarely be necessary. However, if the finish is allowed to
wear through to the wood, the entire floor must be sanded down to the wood and
several coats of finish applied, a more time consuming and much costlier
process. Also, if there is any wax, oil or other build-up on the floor, it must
be sanded down to the wood or the new finish may not adhere properly.